The Complexity of Fabric Classification

I picked up an Emilio Pucci scarf recently and have been enjoying learning about all of the different ways of wearing it. Its size is approximately 3 ft x 3 ft and while I bought it to wear as a cover up on the beach, I’ve been discovering its many variations as a shawl and scarf.

While wearing it the other day in my office, I found myself researching fabric issues and I couldn’t help but think about how appropriate it was given that I was wearing a large (and gorgeous) piece of cloth!

The issue I was looking into had nothing to do with the material of my new accessory but rather that of bonded fabrics and the identification of where nuances arose as between the general rule on bonded fabrics and “pile” fabrics. I was also trying to determine if there were any differences when the fabric was knit versus crocheted.

Finding this answer required an analysis of the Textile Section Notes of the tariff (Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States, “HTSUS”) and in particular, Chapters 59, 60 and 61. Let me explain how the tariff is organized.

The tariff is arranged by Section which generally categorizes similar merchandise. It has titles such as “Vegetable Products,” (Section II), “Plastics and Articles Thereof, Rubber and Articles Thereof” (Section VII), and “Footwear, Headgear, Umbrellas, Sun Umbrellas, Walking Sticks, Seatsticks, Whips, Riding-Crops and Parts Thereof; Prepared Feathers and Articles Made Therewith; Artificial Flowers; Articles of Human Hair” (Section XII).

At the beginning of each Section are “Notes” unique to all of those Chapters within the Section. Similarly, in the first part of each Chapter are Notes specific to the tariff provisions within that Chapter, along with Additional U.S. Notes that are unique to imports coming into the United States.

With regards to “Textile and Textile Articles,” the tariff provisions for these types of imports are found in Section XI, Chapters 50 through 63.

Making determinations on fabrics can be tricky due to reasons such as the type of combination of fibers, if such fibers had been brushed or cut during the processing thereby creating a “pile,” if fabric is adhered to another type of fabric, or if fabric has been coated or impregnated with a medium that contains varying percentages of a rubber and plastic combination.

The methodology for the classification of goods under the HTSUS is governed by what are known as the General Rules of Interpretation (GRI). The first GRI provides that classification determinations are made in accordance with the terms of the headings of the tariff schedule and any relevant Section or Chapter Notes.

Coming back to bonded fabrics, Note 2 to HTSUS Chapter 59 (entitled, “Impregnated, coated, covered or laminated textile fabrics; textile articles of a kind suitable for industrial use”) provides a general rule for bonded fabrics, stating that where a knitted or crocheted fabric is coated, impregnated, laminated or covered, then it would be classified in HTSUS Chapter 59.

Despite this general rule however, Note 1(c) to HTSUS Chapter 60 (entitled, “Knitted or crocheted fabrics”) sets forth an exception to this rule where the imported merchandise involves a knit pile fabric that is coated, impregnated, laminated or covered. Under this circumstance, these fabrics are classifiable within Chapter 60, under Heading 6001, and not under Chapter 59.

Moreover, Additional Legal U.S. Note one (1) to HTSUS Chapter 60 provides a specific definition for the term “long pile fabrics.” As defined, these are “fabrics made by inserting fibers from card silver into the loops of the ground fabric during knitting.” In everyday language, this simply means that a certain manufacturing process must have been utilized in order to qualify under this provision.

Needless to say, making classification determinations can sometimes seem like solving a puzzle as multiple Chapters and Notes need to be analyzed before any conclusions can be drawn.

Questions/comments? Post below or email me at clark.deanna@gmail.com